A 4-Step Guide to Install PVC Cladding

Contents

Step 1: Prepare the site

Step 2: Build the frame and install the rain screen

Step 3: Example 1: Install the cladding with nails or screws

Step 3: Example 2: Install the cladding with staples

Step 4: Installing the corner strips

Elegant, imitating other materials, PVC is now a quality cladding material available in many ranges. The main advantage of this type of cladding is its weight and, therefore, its ease of installation.

PVC cladding is installed on a wooden or metal frame, which is itself installed on a sound façade. The cladding is then installed row by row, using a laser meter to ensure that it is horizontal.

PVC is nowadays treated to resist more easily to bad weather than the old one. What makes it so attractive is that it is almost entirely maintenance-free and resistant to many factors: mould, fire, corrosion, etc.

Here are the steps for installing PVC cladding.

1. Prepare the site

A good measurement is the beginning of a good job. Measure with a tape measure or a rangefinder.

Make a material sheet: a table with the number of wooden battens for the framework, the number of nails and screws, the surface of the cladding, etc.

It would help treat cracks or micro-cracks in the facade by injecting resin or filling the most important ones with grey concrete.

2. Build the framework and install the rain screen

The framework can be wood with battens or metal with angle iron. The wooden frame is the most common.

The installation of the rain screen is covered in another fact sheet. Please refer to it.

PVC cladding can be installed using different techniques depending on the thickness of the cladding: nailing, screwing or staples.

The boards are carefully placed by interlocking: a starting profile is fixed along the rodent screen.

Please note: when installing PVC cladding, the frame battens are laid at 40 cm intervals (unless specified by the manufacturer).

3. Example1: Installing the cladding with nails or screws

If the chosen method is nailing:

Present the cladding board horizontally (for horizontal installation). Check the level with a spirit level or rotary laser.
Nail one end of the board. Typically, fasteners are placed on the top of the board.
Level the blade by moving the other end.
Nail the second end.
Nail the middle of the blade.
Then nail the board approximately every 40-50 cm (each time the board meets a framing strip).

3. Example 2: Installing the cladding with staples

This method of installation is more time-consuming:

Position the first board.
Check that it is horizontal using a laser or spirit level.
Mark the bottom of the board on the wooden battens.
Nail or screw the fastening clips to the marked line.
Place the first board in the staples.
Have staples, a hammer and screws or nails ready, depending on your chosen technique.
Hold the first board of cladding against the façade.
Place the staples in the groove of the board.
Fix the staples (by screwing or nailing) to each batten.
Repeat these steps for each cladding board to be fixed.

Note: It is not advisable to install cladding on window frames because of water infiltration. Cladding at a window is finished with masonry (finished with a corner strip) for the jambs and the top of the window. For the part below the window, the cladding should stop well before the end of the sill so that water can drain away.

4. Installing the corner strips

The finishing touches are the corner trims that complete the installation and give a new look to your home.

As the corner strips do not have a covered surface, they should be glued with a weatherproof adhesive or joined with a glue filler.

Measure the exact length of the corner to be covered.
Transfer this measurement to the corner strip.
Cut the corner strip with a hacksaw or radial saw.
Nail the strip or use a glue putty; nailing is not recommended because of the cracking problem it can cause.

You can choose whether or not to cover the window sills. If you do, make sure you do not disturb the flow of rainwater by blocking the “water drop”.

Attention: a window sill is in most cases equipped with what is called a “water drop”, which allows for good rainwater drainage. It is necessary that the cladding or the finishing strip does not block it.

Equipment for installing PVC cladding

Drill
Spirit level
Paper + Pencil
Tape measure
Hammer
Flat head nails
Hacksaw
Glue putty
Laser Level
Screws
Scaffolding

Posted by : Paul
Jul 11, 2022
Home Services

8 Steps to Change a Floor Tile

It is easy to change a floor tile, but you must take care not to damage the surrounding tiles.

To change a floor tile, remove the surrounding grout, remove the tile to be changed and stick a new tile.

1. Remove the joints around the tile to be changed

Use a tile scraper to remove the grout around the tile to be changed:

– Take a tile scraper and scrape out the grout.

– Be sure to scrape the joints to their total thickness.

2. Break the tile to be replaced

Use a hammer and a chisel to break the tile:

– Place the chisel in the centre of the tile.

– Use hefty blows with the hammer to break the tile.

In the case of thick floor tiles

To remove a thick or large floor tile, use a grinder equipped with a diamond disc to remove the joints and cut the tile.

Clear the joints with the grinder

Joints should be thick enough to allow the grinder disc to pass through; if they are too thin, the grinder may damage the tiles.

To remove grout with the grinder

– Wear safety glasses.

– Turn on the grinder, tilt it slightly downwards and run it over the grout to remove it.

– Clear the joints to their full thickness.

– Proceed slowly so that the grinder does not slip on the adjacent tiles, leading to scratching or cracking.

Cut the tile with the grinder

– Wear protective glasses.

– Turn on the grinder and tilt it down to cut the tile.

– Cut the tile crosswise (make both diagonals).

3. Remove the tile to be replaced

Remove the tile with a flat chisel and a hammer:

– Place the flat chisel in the centre of the tile at a crack.

– Tilt the chisel and hammer out the pieces.

– Always work from the centre to the edges to remove the tile pieces without damaging the surrounding tiles.

4. Clean the surface

Remove any remaining adhesive mortar (tile adhesive):

– Scrape off traces of adhesive mortar with the flat chisel.

– Use a damp sponge to remove the last traces of dust.

– Clean the debris with a broom or hoover.

5. Glue the new tile

After removing the defective tile, replace it with a new tile of the exact dimensions:

– Use ready-to-use tile adhesive.

– Using a notched spatula, spread adhesive in the area you have cleaned.

– Also, glue the back of the tile. Do not apply too much glue to the edges.

6. Place the new tile

Once the gluing operation has been completed, you must place the tile.

– Place the new tile at the correct distance from the joints: use spacers.

– Using a rubber mallet and a bat, press the tile in at the same level as the others. If you do not have a rubber mallet, use a hammer with a cloth around it.

– Do not place the bat on the tile to be replaced only. Place it at an angle on several tiles. This way, you will know at what level you need to hammer the tile to make it even with the others.

– Clean any traces of glue from the tile with a damp sponge and then a dry cloth. Do not press down on the tile you have just laid!

– Once the tiles have been laid, allow them to dry while the adhesive mortar sets. Do not forget to remove the spacers before the adhesive has completely set.

Important: Do not step on the tile you have just laid until the adhesive has dried completely (approx. 24-48 hours).

7. Making the joints

Once the adhesive mortar is dry, you must lay a joint to ensure that the tiles are watertight.

– As with the adhesive mortar, prepare the joint mortar.

– Using a rubber scraper, place your mortar at the joints and spread it at an angle to penetrate between the tiles: the cavities must be full.

– Smooth the joint with the squeegee or with your finger.

– Clean up any grout traces on the tiles with a damp sponge. Do not press on the joints so as not to dig them up.

– Finish with a dry cloth.

– Leave to dry for the time indicated on the packaging.

Tip: Wait at least 48 hours before washing the tiles.

8. If white marks appear on the joints

White marks may appear on the joints once they have dried: this is the cement veil. You can use a special cement veil product or hydrochloric acid to remove these marks.

Case 1: Removing traces with a unique “cement veil” product

– Use a particular product to remove traces of cement veil.

– Soak a sponge in the product and spread it over the joints and tiles.

– Scrub with a brush until the marks disappear.

– Leave for the time indicated on the packaging.

Case 2: Remove marks with hydrochloric acid

Clean the marks with a mixture of water and hydrochloric acid:

– Wear household gloves to protect your hands.

– Mix water and acid in the following proportions: 1/4 hydrochloric acid to 3/4 water.

– Always pour the acid into the water, not the other way around.

– Dip a brush into the hydrochloric acid/water mixture.

– Scrub the tiles and joints with the brush until the marks disappear.

– Once the marks have been removed, rinse the tiles with clean water.

Materials for changing a floor tile

Adhesive mortar

Flat chisel

Tile scraper

Ready-to-use joint mortar

Notched spatula

Protective goggles

Tiling bat

Rubber mallet

Tiling scraper

Hammer

Chisel point

Posted by : Paul
May 24, 2022
Floor Tile, Home Services

The Household Emergency Contact List Every Homeowner Needs

It does feel great to own your own house. It feels like a “home-sweet-home” and not just any temporary dwelling. However, even in your own house, you may end up finding yourself in the midst of a household emergency, where time is of the essence and every second counts.

Household disasters are one of the most unexpected events that can strike at every corner of the house at different scales throughout a whole year. And, worse, if you are not prepared, these disasters can contribute to the loss of precious resources and, in the worst scenario, life.

Many homeowners can, in fact, relate to the fear of household disasters.

However, if you are inspired to put the time and effort into planning ahead for these emergencies and lessening their impact on your house and the safety of your family, check out these important contacts suggested for household emergency preparedness.

1. Plumbing Company

Drip, drip, drip… a broken faucet?

Water problems can spring up anytime, which is the reason why the floor of our mental sanity is broken sometimes.

Some plumbing problems can be minor and simple enough for most homeowners to do on their own.

The most common issue homeowners are asked to solve by themselves in their homes is a toilet that won’t flush because it is clogged. For those who can stomach it, they can easily save up to $100 or more.

However, as many people are not very good at fixing clogged toilets, leaking pipes, faulty water heaters or dripping faucets – especially if the unavoidable occurs in the middle of the night – dialling an emergency plumber is better than making the problems worse.

2. Electric Company

Take a look around you and you’d notice how everything relies on electricity. Whatever you need, you just turn to a switch or outlet and there you have electricity, ready to serve you 24/7. Today, we even have cars running on electricity.

However, despite these great advancements, homeowners know that there are some common electrical problems that would eventually show their fangs sooner or later.

And, here I am not just talking about how your phone’s charger is not working or how your HVAC system is acting funny.

There are some electrical problems hiding within the walls of your house that need to be identified and resolved before they cause any significant damage to your house.

Here are some of these common problems:

Constant electrical surges
Tripping circuit breaker
Sparkling outlets and switches
Buzzing sounds
Broken light switch and loose outlets
Hot ceiling fixtures

Once you have identified these issues, you need to call an expert so as you don’t need to be worried all the time.

At Lion Electric, for example, they can understand your electrical needs and problems and can ensure a completely safe environment for you and your family members. With over 30 years of experience, they have been praised for their honest and reliable electrical services.

3. Heat and Air Conditioning Repair

When something goes wrong with an HVAC system, a homeowner feels helpless as it is not something that an everyday homeowner is well-versed in.

For instance, if your air conditioning unit is shrieking noises that can send shivers down your spine or you notice a strange musty or mouldy smell whenever you walk in the door, these signs indicate a problem with your HVAC system.

Instead of letting things degenerate so much that you’d need extensive repairs, you should contact professionals to fix these issues.

4. Gas Company

A gas leak cannot be taken lightly as it is a life-threatening household emergency.

The moment you notice a smell of sulphur or even rotten eggs or see a sort of dust cloud near the gas line – important warning signs of a gas leak – you should immediately call a gas company.

Now, if you ever find yourself in the midst of a household emergency, let’s say, an electrical emergency, you need to keep the number of Lion Electric in your phone or your wallet.

Posted by : Paul
Aug 30, 2021
Home Services

Category Archives: Home Services

Category: Home Services